Prussian through the lead pile.

Command Stand, 2nd Bn, 4th Kurmark Landwehr

2012-01-28T07:32:00.000-08:00

Recently I have been working flat out on getting loads of Infantry painted, mainly 1st, 2nd and Fusilier Battalions of IR1, 1st East Prussian Regiment, but as a distraction I have decided to paint up a superfluous command stand for 2nd Bn, 4th Kurmark Landwehr (minus flag).
Also i have decided upon my basing method using a layer of Cork Chips, Slate Chips and Scatter mixed with PVA spread thinly onto the base and built up around the "pedestals" that the minis stand upon to give a smooth transition in ground height, this is then covered in a mix of PVA, water and Talc which blends everything together nicely and dries to a rock hard finish.

So, on with the Pics!

As you can see I am waiting for some dead Static Grass and some Highland Tufts, I hope that they will help blend the French Shako into the base as at the moment it sticks out like a "sore thumb".

More updates soon!

Regards Mike.

Perry Landwehr Experiment

2012-01-19T13:00:00.000-08:00

I have been experimenting with the plastic Prussian Infantry Kit from Perry Miniatures and after an evening of frenzied sculpting and kit bashing followed by a couple of hours painting i came up with this fellow.

A Perry-Victrix Hybrid of a Prussian Landwehr infantryman. For any whom are interested, here is how it was achieved.

Step 1) Remove coat tails from a Perry plastic Prussian.

Step 2) Fill in between the legs with Epoxy Putty, this will create an armature for the litewka.

Step 3) Extend the kollet to just above the knees, this will form the litewka.

Step 4) Add the front of the coat and white the putty is still quite soft make depressions where you want the buttons to be.

Step 5) Sculpt on cuffs and long trousers over the gaiters.

Step 6) Glue on a Victrix British head wearing a stovepipe shako, and remove the top leaving 2mm to form the hat band, then add a blob of putty and shape into a cap

Step 7) Add another blob of putty to the top of the cap, push something circular into the top of the cap, this should ooze out of the circular object and when removed should create piping detail.

Step 7) Add any details you see fit, on the guy above i have sculpted a British pattern canteen.

Remember to allow ample drying time between each step, then slap some color on to the little blighter.

Mike

Button, button, who's got the button?

2012-01-13T07:11:00.000-08:00

13/01/2012

Work is progressing on my 1813 Prussians, using Perry Plastic Prussians with both arms removed and replaced with Victrix Plastic British and French arms I can quite easily pose a battalion in "Charging", "At Porte", or "Firing Line/Loading". I can re-sculpt the lower left front portion of the Coat but my major dilemma is buttons, I just cannot sculpt them small enough no matter how hard i try.

Solution 1- Paint them on after.

This is the easiest solution but i do not think it will be satisfactory as the loss of sculpted detail will stand out like a sore thumb!

Solution 2- Operation Paperclip.

More complicated, but worth it in the long run, I drill a tiny hole in the place where a button should be and insert a small length of the smallest paperclip that I can find, then continue with the sculpting, after the sculpt is dry I can cut off the paperclip almost flush with the sculpting work and (Drum-roll please!) instant button. This should also work on modifying the British and French Cuffs.

If anyone has any more tips on making small buttons, feel free to let me know. In my next update I should finally get some WIP photos up here.

Regards.
Mike

A first time for everything!

2012-01-12T08:18:00.000-08:00

12/01/2012

First ever Blog, first ever Post.
2012 is a year of change for me, I have finally sold off all of my old Games Workshop bits and pieces and started to fully dedicate my hobby time to Napoleonics in 28mm.
Coming from a Fantasy and Sci-fi background I have been captured by the influx of plastics into Naps as a full White Metal force in 25s-28s was beyond my pocket! (this is clearly a lie, coming from playing Warhammer.) But although Historical Miniatures are of a lower price for the same if not better quality Models the amount of reference material I have had to folk out for has outweighed this.

Mike